Head Pump Out Fitting

Our 8.3 has the holding tank, pump out fitting located in the lower panel of the bow anchor well. This location may or may not be typical of all the 8.3's that have been built. This location, most likely, was chosen for its proximity to the original holding tank that was mounted below the forward V-berth. When we relocated the holding tank to a space below the port cabin settee, we chose to maintain the old location for the pump out fitting.

Holding Tank Pump-out Connection

This location results in a rather annoying process for completing a pump out.

First; The attendant has to remove the cap from the fitting, find the correct adapter and screw it into the fitting.
Second: He has to make the connection to the adapter. This is difficult, due to bulk of the pump out hardware and the depth and limited size of the anchor well.

We experienced the difficulty with this process when we berthed at Harbor Club North when we could use the pump out system that was provided at no extra cost. Sometimes the adapter would be mislaid. When is was available, we still had to contend with bulkiness of the pump fitting and finding the correct position for it deep in the anchor well.

After considerable thought, we decided to create an extended fitting to fit into the pump out fitting that was tall enough to keep the pump fitting and hoses above the level of the deck.

This is a photo of the assembled adapter, along with a plastic cap that we keep on when we store the unit in the anchor well.

Pump-out Adapter and Storage Cap

 The adapter assembly consists of a short length of threaded plastic pipe, sized to fit the boat pump-out fitting. The top part is a standard adapter to mate with pump-out hardware. A PVC coupling makes the connection between the pipe and the fitting.

This photo shows the adapter installed in the anchor well, ready to make the connection with the pump-out hardware.

Pump-out Adapter Installed

Finally, the photo with the adapter connected to the pump-out hardware, ready for action.

This project took a little thought and, a few pieces of plastic and a few dollars. It saves frustration of not having the proper equipment and the struggle to get the hardware connected in a confined space. It makes the set up easy and quick.

Lessons Learned:

1. It pays to have proper equipment for the job. especially when it is a distasteful  one.

2. Solutions to problems don't have to be complex or costly.

3. Often, standard parts are readily available.

Cockpit Awning

 The previous owner had provided a cockpit awning that was fashioned from common, blue, tarp material. This awning did provide protection from the sun.  However, it was beginning to fail, required multiple attachment cords and knots, was rather heavy, difficult to fold and store,

We designed an awning that addressed most of the faults that we found with the original version. This is a picture of the awning that we made.

  The awning material is a light weight, reinforced, water proof, tent floor that we purchased at an outfitter. The floor was a pre-sewn rectangle, with grommets along the outer hems. We modified the port and starboard hems to match the contours along the life lines.The awning is sized to fit from just behind the mast to the back stay. We sewed a slit along the center line of the tarp that runs from the topping lift to the back stay.

This picture shows the attachment points of the tarp. 

The forward, top attachment is a length of 1/8 inch line that passes around the mast and is tied back to a loop in the same line. 

The back stay attachment is a short, 1/4  inch line that is tied to a grommet in the aft seam on the port side of the tarp and has an open, plastic hook that attaches to the back stay. The tail of this line passes through a grommet in the seam of the starboard side of the tarp and is then tied around the back stay. Installing this line is much quicker than the explanation. 

 The attachments to the  lifelines are symmetrical and simple. Three, short lengths of bungee cord are attached to grommets in the hem of the awning. Each bungee cord is looped through the eyelet a secured with a stainless hog ring. The other end of the bungee is fitted with an open, plastic hook. The length of each bungee is set to apply moderate force to the lifeline.

The fore and aft corners of the awning are tied to the nearest stanchion, with a short length of 1/8 inch braided line. These lines are tied to the corner grommets permanently.

All told, only six (6) knots are needed to set up the awning.

The aft sections of the awning are triangular sections that are sewn to the aft hem of the awning. These sections really help to provide additional shade for the cockpit. A corner of each triangle is hooked to a loop at  the center of the stern rail with bungee-hook combination. These panels add much shade and do not impede air flow. These panels are made from light weight, nylon material.

This final picture shows the interior of the awning and how effective it is in providing shade for the cockpit area.

We have been pleased with the results of this project.

Lessons learned include:

1. You don't need to spend big bucks to have a canvas shop make you an awning.

2. Search for light weight materials that are easy to handle and store.

3. Take lots of measurements, make a plan and with luck you will find an available finished product that can be adapted to your needs.

Fitting Out 2016

This year, in Michigan,  spring has been late in arriving. My rather sketchy records show that we are more than a week behind last year. Last weekend, we finally got a weather window that allowed us to remove the tarps, clean and polish the topsides as well as repaint the bottom with VC17m.



The topsides, fairly well protected by the tarps, were easily cleaned. The polishing went well, as temperature and humidity were in the "good" range. We apply a cleaner wax with a 10 inch, orbital buffer. The first picture shows a good reflection in the gel goat. The topsides are in good shape for a boat that is now, 37 years old.

Topsides Polished

For the bottom, last falls pressure washing paid off. We did repair some small areas, with epoxy filler, before winter set in. The bottom is still in very good shape. It had been coated with VCTar by the previous owner. (note: VCTar is no longer available. It has been replaced by Interlux Interprotect). This second photo shows the satisfying appearance of a  fresh coat of VC17m. I have to admit that we are fortunate to sail only in fresh water.

Fresh Bottom Paint

 Last Saturday, 23 Apr 2016, we loaded some gear on board and prepared for launching. We are scheduled to go in the water Thursday, 28 April.

Storing the Boat at the End of Season

The other day, we put the final touches on the winter layup for the boat. In all, it takes a while to get the boat ready for haul out. After haul out, it seems to take at least a month the get the boat actually closed for the season.

If we could work continuously, the time would be shorter. However, the weather and and other duties consume most of the calendar. I have never actually measured the person hours that are involved.
We make a fairly complete list of tasks and check off each item as it is finished. We simplify the list making by making a copy of last year's file and adding any "new" and deleting any "obsolete" items.

A partial list of things that we do includes:
- Repairing any items that remain on the "fix it" list.
- Pumping out the holding tank and filling (almost) the fuel tank.

- Cleaning Clinton River scum from the waterline with aluminum cleaner

- Using a cleaner/wax to polish the hull gel coat. (better weather now than in the early spring)
- Draining all fresh water and adding antifreeze.
- Erecting a system of railing and rafters that support the tarps.

The railings replace the upper lifelines and the rafters  fit between the railings and the mast.
(Picture taken in the Spring) 

- Removing all fabric and paper materials from the interior.
- Removing the batteries and all electronic items and storing them at home.
- Open all thru hull valves.
- Finally, install the canvas mast boots, forward and aft tarps. Our fitted tarps, inherited when we bought the boat, served us well and have recently been replaced. Having the tarps made in two parts makes transporting and installing them much easier.
You should note that tie down lines are routed to and arranged on the cradle. this keeps the tarps against the hull to limit fluttering. A flapping tarp will soon destroy itself.

Tarps installed and tied up.
(Picture taken in the fall)

We use adequate lengths of 1/8 inch diameter, braided, polyester line for the ties. This line has adequate strength and allows a little more stretch than larger diameter line.
Each tie is attached through a tarp grommet with a bowline. A small loop is tied about 18 inches from the point where the line touches the cradle. The line is then led around a cradle beam and brought back up through the loop. See picture, below.

Tarp Tie-Down Knot

The tie is pulled down, making the tie quite taught. This lashing provides a 2:1 force advantage, so you should be cautious in applying downward load to the free end. Then, while holding the tie where it passes through the loop, half hitches are tied to the standing part of the tie. These knots never seems to slip. They are, however, bit tough to undo.
Each tie down is fitted to specific point on the cradle. This makes it easy to sort out the lines when fall  comes.


Lessons:
- If tarps are used, assure that they fit well and do not flap in the wind. If they do, they will quickly be destroyed by the wind.
- We prefer to use tied down fabric tarps for winter storage because  small section of the tarp can be detached to allow access to the boat and they provide some thermal insulation when inside the boat in the dead of winter. They provide a little ventilation. Additional ventilation is provided by openings at the bow and stern, below the mast.

The Taming of The Stairs

For many years, we have struggled with the stair unit. When in place, and locked in position, it functions well and is a safe and convenient means of transit between the cockpit and the cabin. However, when engine access is needed, it must be removed and it becomes a heavy, unstable and unmanageable piece of hardware with no easy means of storage. It is best stowed by laying the unit on the cabin sole where it occupies a large amount of space.

We pondered various solutions for stowage of the stair unit, including hinging the unit at the bridge deck, hoisting it to the overhead and locking it to the overhead. This would prevent access to the outside and would become a hazard to anyone working below the stowed unit. this concept was quickly rejected.

We also considered adding hinges to one side of the unit that would allow it to be opened, like a door, to allow engine access. This would involve providing clearance to allow the unit to rotate. Since only limited space for access would be provided, this idea was also rejected.

We finally got the idea that it would be nice if the unit would stand up on its own and and be stable after it was slid out of it's normal position. This requires a means of support that provides the necessary stability to balance the unit. Many different contraptions were considered before we settled on extensions for the base of the unit.

The assembled extensions are shown in this picture. This photo is taken of the bottom of the stair unit, with the extensions in place. The extensions consist of lengths of one inch, square aluminum tubing with round, adjustable felt pads on each end. The extensions are about ten inched long. They are set in frame work made of mahogany 1X4 stock with supports made from aluminum angle stock. The assembly is attached to the inside of the stair unit with wood screws.

Extension Unit Installed

The next photo shows the stair unit standing, erect, on the cabin sole. For those familiar with the boat and the stairs, this is rare event. For this picture the extension unit was attached with a pair of c-clamps.

Extension unit, standing, temporary mounting

Th extensions provide quite a bit of stability to the stair unit. In fact, a significant heel angle can be accommodated. The next photo shows the tipping-point angle for the stair unit, with the extensions in place.

Unit With Extensions, Tipped

By now, you are wondering where do the extensions go when the the stairs are in normal position.

This photo shows the extension unit, removed from the stairs and placed in the normal position.

Extension Unit In Normal Position

The extensions protrude into the engine compartment, beside the longitudinal bulkheads that support the engine mounts. This photo clearly shows the asymmetry of the opening for the stair unit, The aft ends of the extensions nearly contact the vertical brackets of the engine mounts. This limits the length of the extensions.

The felt pads on the aft ends of the extensions are supported by and slide on supports that we added to the vertical bulkheads. These supports are at the same level as the cabin sole and function as a continuation of the sole. The starboard and port supports are shown in these photos.

Port Support

Starboard Support

A support consists of a 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 square mahogany block that extends from the end of the sole, along the vertical bulkhead, as far as the engine mount bracket. The top surface of the block is at the same level as the lower surface of the plywood sole (3/4 inch below the top surface). The supports are attached to the bulkhead with lag screws. A section of 3/4 inch thick by 1-1/2 wide teak stock is cut to fit and is attached to the top of each support block with a pair of screws that are countersunk to be flush with surface. The provides a smooth, sliding surface for the felt pads that is the same level as the sole.

Since the extension unit has been installed, we find it to be convenient a safe way to manage removal and stowage of the stair unit. The felt feet make sliding of the unit on the sole easy and a pleasure. The advantages for this design are that there are no loose pieces and no tools are required. The unit has added very little weight to the assembly and the cost has been quite low. However, mahogany is not cheap.

Lessons Learned:

1. Don't suffer with things that are difficult to deal with.
2. Keep considering various solutions and select the most effective one. Experiment with it and keep
    it if it works.

 

Toilet Replacement

This spring, during fitting out, after the boat was launched, we discovered a new and large toilet leak. The blue, treated water was appearing on the mounting surface for the toilet. We checked all of the hose fittings, the pump and valve body and found no leaks. Yet, treated water kept appearing. Further investigation, with a mirror and flashlight. revealed that rear surface of the toilet bowl was wet with treated water and seepage from what appeared to cracks in the bowl itself.

This toilet is the original Wilcox-Crittendon "Headmate" toilet that is now about 36 years old. We obtained a Jabsco compact toilet as a replacement. This Jabsco toilet has comparable dimensions to the W-C and should fit in the same space. It also has all of the same-sized hose fittings that are in same locations as the old toilet.

We then proceeded to remove the old toilet. After removal, we could the get a good view of failed surface of the toilet bowl. This picture shows the evidence of multiple cracks in the rear part of the bowl.

The root cause of these cracks has not been determined. A Google search did not yield any clues as to the cause of these cracks. They appear be related to some form of water-related freezing. It seems to as if the water penetrated the glazed surface of the bowl and then froze, causing the cracking. We are continuing to investigate the probable cause of these cracks.

The new Jabsco toilet fit easily in about the same position as the old one. Installation did involve plugging of the old mounting holes and the drilling of new ones to fit the new base. All of the old hose connections were re-used for the new toilet.

This picture shows the new toilet in position, with a picture of the old toilet on the seat cover.

When the #1 Genoa is up, we have been annoyed by having to steer off course, take a look for traffic and then return to our course. This picture shows how the view ahead is partially blocked by the sail.

We have had the #1 Genoa re-cut to raise the clew 3 feet. The local Doyle Sails shop did this for a very reasonable cost. We had the clew raised to improve our forward visibility while sailing close hauled.  The lower section of the sail that was removed should not have a large effect on performance because that section was partially distorted by the life lines and was mostly, fluttering in the breeze.



We will provide an up date after we fly the sail in the spring.








As promised, here is the up date:

We did have some good weather to check out the #1 Genoa with lower panel re-cut to raise the clew about three feet. As you can see in the new, eye level, photo, visibility forward has been greatly improved. we did not notice any large degradation in performance from the approximately 8% reduction on sail area. The noticeable improvement in sail shape may have compensated.