Head Pump Out Fitting

Our 8.3 has the holding tank, pump out fitting located in the lower panel of the bow anchor well. This location may or may not be typical of all the 8.3's that have been built. This location, most likely, was chosen for its proximity to the original holding tank that was mounted below the forward V-berth. When we relocated the holding tank to a space below the port cabin settee, we chose to maintain the old location for the pump out fitting.

Holding Tank Pump-out Connection

This location results in a rather annoying process for completing a pump out.

First; The attendant has to remove the cap from the fitting, find the correct adapter and screw it into the fitting.
Second: He has to make the connection to the adapter. This is difficult, due to bulk of the pump out hardware and the depth and limited size of the anchor well.

We experienced the difficulty with this process when we berthed at Harbor Club North when we could use the pump out system that was provided at no extra cost. Sometimes the adapter would be mislaid. When is was available, we still had to contend with bulkiness of the pump fitting and finding the correct position for it deep in the anchor well.

After considerable thought, we decided to create an extended fitting to fit into the pump out fitting that was tall enough to keep the pump fitting and hoses above the level of the deck.

This is a photo of the assembled adapter, along with a plastic cap that we keep on when we store the unit in the anchor well.

Pump-out Adapter and Storage Cap

 The adapter assembly consists of a short length of threaded plastic pipe, sized to fit the boat pump-out fitting. The top part is a standard adapter to mate with pump-out hardware. A PVC coupling makes the connection between the pipe and the fitting.

This photo shows the adapter installed in the anchor well, ready to make the connection with the pump-out hardware.

Pump-out Adapter Installed

Finally, the photo with the adapter connected to the pump-out hardware, ready for action.

This project took a little thought and, a few pieces of plastic and a few dollars. It saves frustration of not having the proper equipment and the struggle to get the hardware connected in a confined space. It makes the set up easy and quick.

Lessons Learned:

1. It pays to have proper equipment for the job. especially when it is a distasteful  one.

2. Solutions to problems don't have to be complex or costly.

3. Often, standard parts are readily available.

Cockpit Awning

 The previous owner had provided a cockpit awning that was fashioned from common, blue, tarp material. This awning did provide protection from the sun.  However, it was beginning to fail, required multiple attachment cords and knots, was rather heavy, difficult to fold and store,

We designed an awning that addressed most of the faults that we found with the original version. This is a picture of the awning that we made.

  The awning material is a light weight, reinforced, water proof, tent floor that we purchased at an outfitter. The floor was a pre-sewn rectangle, with grommets along the outer hems. We modified the port and starboard hems to match the contours along the life lines.The awning is sized to fit from just behind the mast to the back stay. We sewed a slit along the center line of the tarp that runs from the topping lift to the back stay.

This picture shows the attachment points of the tarp. 

The forward, top attachment is a length of 1/8 inch line that passes around the mast and is tied back to a loop in the same line. 

The back stay attachment is a short, 1/4  inch line that is tied to a grommet in the aft seam on the port side of the tarp and has an open, plastic hook that attaches to the back stay. The tail of this line passes through a grommet in the seam of the starboard side of the tarp and is then tied around the back stay. Installing this line is much quicker than the explanation. 

 The attachments to the  lifelines are symmetrical and simple. Three, short lengths of bungee cord are attached to grommets in the hem of the awning. Each bungee cord is looped through the eyelet a secured with a stainless hog ring. The other end of the bungee is fitted with an open, plastic hook. The length of each bungee is set to apply moderate force to the lifeline.

The fore and aft corners of the awning are tied to the nearest stanchion, with a short length of 1/8 inch braided line. These lines are tied to the corner grommets permanently.

All told, only six (6) knots are needed to set up the awning.

The aft sections of the awning are triangular sections that are sewn to the aft hem of the awning. These sections really help to provide additional shade for the cockpit. A corner of each triangle is hooked to a loop at  the center of the stern rail with bungee-hook combination. These panels add much shade and do not impede air flow. These panels are made from light weight, nylon material.

This final picture shows the interior of the awning and how effective it is in providing shade for the cockpit area.

We have been pleased with the results of this project.

Lessons learned include:

1. You don't need to spend big bucks to have a canvas shop make you an awning.

2. Search for light weight materials that are easy to handle and store.

3. Take lots of measurements, make a plan and with luck you will find an available finished product that can be adapted to your needs.

Fitting Out 2016

This year, in Michigan,  spring has been late in arriving. My rather sketchy records show that we are more than a week behind last year. Last weekend, we finally got a weather window that allowed us to remove the tarps, clean and polish the topsides as well as repaint the bottom with VC17m.



The topsides, fairly well protected by the tarps, were easily cleaned. The polishing went well, as temperature and humidity were in the "good" range. We apply a cleaner wax with a 10 inch, orbital buffer. The first picture shows a good reflection in the gel goat. The topsides are in good shape for a boat that is now, 37 years old.

Topsides Polished

For the bottom, last falls pressure washing paid off. We did repair some small areas, with epoxy filler, before winter set in. The bottom is still in very good shape. It had been coated with VCTar by the previous owner. (note: VCTar is no longer available. It has been replaced by Interlux Interprotect). This second photo shows the satisfying appearance of a  fresh coat of VC17m. I have to admit that we are fortunate to sail only in fresh water.

Fresh Bottom Paint

 Last Saturday, 23 Apr 2016, we loaded some gear on board and prepared for launching. We are scheduled to go in the water Thursday, 28 April.